The Martlet

A long hibernation is about to begin in Victoria and the pantry is looking rather dismal for locavores accustomed to a fecund summer and autumn. The farmers markets are closing, and gardens are growing nothing but kale and potatoes.

It can be difficult to lead a healthy lifestyle while going to school, but it may be possible to eat local, fresh produce throughout the winter.

“There is some local produce. There’s cabbages, leeks, parsnips and, of course, potatoes,” said Jodi Demedeiros, owner of Ambrosio’s Market in Cadboro Bay.

A lot of crop in the Victoria area is grown until October and then stored for the rest of the season, but eating fresh produce in the winter can be difficult, she added.

The secret

Perhaps the secret to local eating in the winter is in an awkward, plump and occasionally warted winter vegetable: the squash.

The squash was one of the three main indigenous plants, along with maize and beans, used for agriculture by aboriginals in North America.

Winter squashes, like the butternut, spaghetti, acorn and pumpkin varieties, are usually harvested in early fall and then cured to further harden the skin. Squash seeds can be eaten directly or ground into a paste, and the vegetables’ shoots, leaves and tendrils can be used as greens.

“Every squash has a different texture and taste,” said John Demedeiros, another owner of the market. “Squash is like meat for vegetarians. There’s so many things you can do with it. You can put it in tacos or lasagna.”

Ambrosio’s Market sells 13 varieties of locally-grown squash.

“You can mash it, eat it with carrots or bake it. Some people it eat plain and some like it with butter and brown sugar. I use spaghetti squash instead of noodles,” Jodi said. “You can freeze your tomatoes in the summer for a sauce, bake your squash upside down on a pan and then scoop the strands out with a fork. It’s a warm winter dish, it’s easy and affordable.”

Eat locally?

The popularity of the 100-Mile Diet has proven that we are ready to make changes in the way we think about food. Local produce has more nutrients because it has spent less time getting from the farm to our plate. It reduces our carbon footprint and helps the local economy.

“It just tastes better,” said Jodi about local foods.

But can the 100-Mile Diet mentality go too far?

“I’ ve seen young cooks who are so adamant about eating local that they are afraid to buy olive oil and salt, and you just can’t cook without these things,” said Jamie Sellar, a local specialty food distributor. “I met a farmer near here who was trying to grow olives. We just don’t have the right climate for that.”

Demedeiros agrees.

“We can’t break the laws of mother nature,” he said. “If you really want to do a good job, we need to support what we can support. We need to master what we do as a community in Victoria.”