The Martlet

Canoe is Victoria’s brewpub. It’s housed in the “City Lights” building, originally used to light Victoria’s streetlamps and dating back to 1894. The handcrafted beers are uniquely West Coast, with names like Siren’s Song pale ale or Amber Artifact lager, which was brewed in celebration of the Royal B.C. Museum’s 125th anniversary. To top off the local feel, Vince Vaccaro often plays on the in-house speakers.

It’s difficult to imagine this sophisticated brewhouse and restaurant as anything else. Exposed brick, unfinished wood beams, soaring ceilings and chandeliers drenched in crystals create high-class ambience. Servers in basic grey t-shirts and an open kitchen contrast pleasantly with the décor.

But don’t be fooled: everything here is a construction aimed at the young professional crowd with plenty of disposable income, or at those with a guilty environmental conscience. Surplus food is donated to homeless shelters and old cooking oil is converted into bio fuel. Even the menu, which has daily modifications, is printed on recycled papyrus.

Like a hipster with a moustache, Canoe lives up to the complex identity it presents. My beer-drinking pal proclaimed the Winter Gale strong ale ($6.50) “the best beer I’ve ever had.” The Silk Road sangria pitcher ($21 on Saturdays) was not overly sweet, but managed to retain fruity notes as it was accented with a bounty of fresh cranberries and orange, lemon and lime slices.

Flash-fried calamari ($12.75) was delightfully crunchy; the batter seemed to shatter when bitten. Spinach and beetroot salad ($12.75) was heavily topped with goat cheese and quinoa, but lacked imagination.

The Aussie burger ($17.50) proved popular with our group, what with its bacon, cheese and fried-egg toppings. The patty itself was moist and held up well in a sturdy bun. Brick-grilled chicken ($19) served with scalloped sweet potatoes and Swiss chard was hearty in flavour, yet refined in presentation.

The portions are in line with industry standard, but you’d expect more when the prices run on the inflated side. I’d suggest trying the farm-to-table feature ($14.99), which rotates daily. Order early, as they had already sold out of Saturday’s special when I visited.

For a more intimate experience, ask to be seated on the second floor. None of the ambience is lost, but the bustle is subdued. Canoe also has a large bar area, complete with a pool table. Live music can be heard four days of the week.

Canoe has constructed a hip eatery that could exist in any metropolis, but the hometown details are why I would return.

Canoe Brewpub 450 Swift Street Sunday to Wednesday: 11:30 a.m. – 11p.m. Thursday: 11:30 a.m. – 12 p.m. Friday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m. – 1 a.m.