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The Martlet

Vancouver Island’s best camping

When planning your spring break, consider staying close to home but far from civilization

Jan 13, 2012 | Volume 64 Issue 19 | No comments
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We rounded the bend and stared down the hill at a mother black bear and two cubs. They were less than 200 metres away from us, standing on the trail. The mother turned her head towards us. A lens cap was pushed into my hands as my mom started snapping pictures. I think she may have gotten one good shot of the mother’s rear as they pawed back into the forest.

This is one of many memories I have of camping around Vancouver Island as a youth. It’s not so easy now that I am in university; it is not as if I have weeks of free time with no homework and no worries as I did when I was younger.

But now that spring is on its way (almost), it is time to start thinking about weekend trips and getting reconnected with the true West Coast.

For that real Vancouver Island experience, I would recommend heading out to the Port Renfrew area. Accessing it is a bit more difficult than popping over to Goldstream, which is great for a day hike or even some camping, but it is definitely worth the trip.

Port Renfrew is just a two-hour drive from Victoria along High- way 14. It’s a quaint town that gives the perfect West Coast experience with less danger of mud puddles and fog. My favourite place to camp there is the Pacheedaht First Nations Campground, just across the river from the townsite and right on San Juan Beach. Pitching a tent in the sand and lazing around on the beach is a great way to spend a weekend, especially with friends.

When I want more than a cursory, touristy look at the West Coast, I go to China Beach, about 45 minutes before Port Renfrew on Highway 14.

It is about a 10-minute walk down to the beach; hiking boots are definitely not necessary for this one. The beach offers camping sites on the bluff above the sand and great views of the ocean.

The Juan de Fuca trail starts at China Beach, and from there it is a 45-minute hike to Mystic Beach. It gets the heart rate up, but it’s not too difficult for a regular person. The one thing I never forget on a hike — even a short one — is my bag of peanuts. I have found they are the best way to stay energized.

The trail to Mystic Beach is beautiful (but watch out for the slick trail in the spring — you may end up thigh-deep in mud if you slip off the planks laid along the trail). Once you get to the beach itself, a whole new world opens up. At Mystic you can camp right on the beach, although it is great for a day adventure, too.

The best thing to do at Mystic is explore. At the south end, a waterfall cascades over the cliffs, while at the north end there are caves in the rock cliff that are large enough to wander through, at low tide. For a bit more of a challenge, hike the trail from Mystic Beach to Bear Beach, which is full of ups and downs and takes about an hour.

Bear Beach is a perfect place to sit and try to spot grey whales passing by in the spring or fall. Camping right on the beach is mandatory and gives one of the best experiences the Juan de Fuca trail has to offer.

Spring is coming. It is time to start getting back outside and exploring. The southern west coast of the Island is perfect for a week- end adventure.

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